One of Saigon’s youngest major boulevards, Trần Hưng Đạo was built in 1911-1913 over former swamp land to provide a more direct route between the cities of Saigon and Chợ Lớn. For nearly 60 years after the conquest, Saigon and Chợ Lớn were separated by a large expanse of swampy ground which took its name from the Marais Boresse
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By the mid 1960s, MACV had outgrown both 606 Trần Hưng Đạo and 137 Pasteur, so in 1966 it began moving its various branch offices into the massive purpose-built “Pentagon East” complex, adjacent to Tân Sơn Nhất Air Base. The building at 137 Pasteur was vacated by MACV on 2 July 1966.
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The elegant colonial villa at 606 Trần Hưng Đạo, soon to be demolished This article was published previously in Saigoneer Permission was given recently to demolish another of the city’s old French buildings, the former SAMIPIC mansion at 606 Trần Hưng Đao. In April 2015, it was reported that the authorities were considering an application to destroy the old mansion at 606 Trần Hưng Đạo in order to make way for a new tower block. It is understood that city leaders have now given the plan the green light and demolition is expected to commence very soon. According to local historians, 606 Trần Hưng Đạo was once the site of an old Khmer pagoda, but by 1932 that had been demolished to make way for the current building, an elegant villa built for the state-franchised charity lottery company known as the Société pour l’amélioration morale, intellectuelle et physique des indigènes de Cochinchine SAMIPIC. The MAAG headquarters at 606 Trần Hưng Đạo in 1962 unknown photographer Set up by decree of the Governor of Cochinchina in October 1927 to administer a 600,000 piastre state lottery, SAMIPIC was run by a committee which “grouped together the élite of Annamite society” Gazette coloniale, 1936. It sold 2-piastre lottery tickets to the public and then donated a substantial part of its income to charitable, health and educational causes in Cochinchina. It also “organised conferences, and every year offered a number of scholarships in France and in the colony to the most deserving students.” SAMIPIC’s achievements included setting up the Maison des Associations Annamites in Saigon in 1929 and funding the construction of the “Maison indochinoise” at the Cité Universitaire de Paris, which was inaugurated on 22 March 1930 by French President Gaston Doumergue and the young King Bảo Đại. SAMIPIC was housed initially in a small villa at 76 rue de Lagrandière [Lý Tự Trọng], but on 16 February 1933, La Croix newspaper reported the inauguration of its brand new headquarters at 96 boulevard Galliéni now 606 Trần Hưng Đạo. The building was later described as “superb,” with “magnificent decor” Écho annamite, 6 September 1941. Another view of the MAAG headquarters at 606 Trần Hưng Đạo from 1963 unknown photographer After the departure of the French in 1954, the villa was acquired by the American government and became home to the Military Assistance Advisory Group MAAG, which co-ordinated the supply of military hardware, training and assistance to the French and subsequently to the Republic of Việt Nam. Because of its high profile, the villa was one of three US installations in the city targeted by the National Liberation Front on 22 October 1957. In February 1962, following the arrival of the first US Army aviation units, MAAG became part of the Military Assistance Command Việt Nam MACV, which was set up to provide a more integrated command structure with full responsibility for all US military activities and operations in Việt Nam. At first, MACV staff shared the villa at 606 Trần Hưng Đạo with their MAAG colleagues, but in May 1962 they were given separate accommodation on Pasteur street see 137 Pasteur. From that date until 1967, the villa at 606 Trần Hưng Đạo was known as “MACV II.” MAAG survived as a separate entity until May 1964, when its functions were fully integrated into MACV. In August 1967, MACV vacated the villa, moving all of its operations to the new “Pentagon East” complex at Tân Sơn Nhất Air Base. 606 Trần Hưng Đạo subsequently became the headquarters of the Republic of Korea Forces Vietnam ROKFV, which remained at the villa until the signing of the Paris Peace Accords in 1973. Until recently, the villa at 606 Trần Hưng Đạo was home to several local businesses. UPDATE – Despite its heritage value, this building was demolished in August 2018. The Republic of Korea Forces Vietnam ROKFV headquarters building at 606 Trần Hưng Đạo in February 1969 photograph via The MACV II headquarters at 606 Trần Hưng Đạo, pictured some time between 1962 and 1967 unknown photographer The Republic of Korea Forces Vietnam ROKFV headquarters building at 606 Trần Hưng Đạo in February 1969 photograph via The Republic of Korea Forces Vietnam ROKFV headquarters building at 606 Trần Hưng Đạo in the late 1960s unknown photographer The Republic of Korea Forces Vietnam ROKFV headquarters building at 606 Trần Hưng Đạo in 1969 unknown photographer Tim Doling is the author of the guidebook Exploring Saigon-Chợ Lớn – Vanishing heritage of Hồ Chí Minh City Nhà Xuất Bản Thế Giới, Hà Nội, 2019 A full index of all Tim’s blog articles since November 2013 is now available here. Join the Facebook group pages Saigon-Chợ Lớn Then & Now to see historic photographs juxtaposed with new ones taken in the same locations, and Đài Quan sát Di sản Sài Gòn – Saigon Heritage Observatory for up-to-date information on conservation issues in Saigon and Chợ Lớn.
The boulevard Galliéni, now Trần Hưng Đạo boulevard, pictured in the 1940s This article was published previously in Saigoneer. One of Saigon’s youngest major boulevards, Trần Hưng Đạo was built in 1911-1913 over former swamp land to provide a more direct route between the cities of Saigon and Chợ Lớn. An 1890 map of the “High Road” and then proposed “Low Road” tramway routes, which avoided the swamp For nearly 60 years after the conquest, Saigon and Chợ Lớn were separated by a large expanse of swampy ground known as the Marais Boresse Boresse Swamp. This particularly inaccessible quagmire was located immediately to the west of modern Nguyễn Thái Học street. During this period, access between the two cities was achieved by taking either the “High Road” route Haute – modern Nguyễn Thị Minh Khai and Trần Phú streets – or the “Low Road” route Basse, which ran along the north bank of the arroyo Chinois Bến Nghé creek. It was along these routes that two rival Saigon-Chợ Lớn steam tramways were opened by private operators, in 1881 and 1891 respectively. In 1879, 1887 and again in 1904, the Cochinchina authorities drew up plans to fill the swamp, but on each occasion these plans had to be abandoned, due to arguments between Colonial Councillors and ultimately shortage of funds. The boulevard Galliéni pictured on a Saigon map of 1918, before the tramway line was installed Finally on 27 July 1910, following an embarrassing intervention by the exasperated Government General in Hà Nội, the sum of 1,250,000 piastres was set aside for the filling of the marsh, the sinking of foundations for the new Saigon Railway Station and the construction of a brand new road linking the two cities, to be known as the boulevard Saigon-Cholon. Entrusted to the Société française d’Entreprises de Dragages et de Travaux publics on 18 April 1911, these major works took over two years to complete. The boulevard Saigon-Cholon opened to traffic on 9 December 1913. Conceived from the outset as an extension of the boulevard Bonnard modern Lê Lợi boulevard, with which it connected via the square in front of the new Halles centrales or Bến Thành Market, the boulevard Saigon-Cholon extended west as far as the rue d’An-Binh modern An Bình street, whence the existing rue des Marins modern Trần Hưng Đạo B continued into Chợ Lớn General Joseph Galliéni 24 April 1849-27 May 1916 In late 1916, following the death of French military commander and colonial administrator General Joseph Galliéni 24 April 1849-27 May 1916, the boulevard Saigon-Cholon was rechristened boulevard Général Galliéni. By 1911, the operator of the old “High Road” steam tramway, the Société générale des tramways à vapeur de Cochinchine SGTVC, had been driven out of business by its “Low Road” rival, the Compagnie française des tramways de l’Indochine CFTI, obliging the government to step in and run the loss-making “High Road” tramway directly as part of its Chemins de fer de l’Indochine CFI mainline rail network. In 1920, as CFTI embarked upon a comprehensive tramway electrification project, CFI briefly considered a proposal to replace the old “High Road” steam tramway with a brand new electric tramway line along boulevard Galliéni. However, it seems that CFI managers had little interest in developing the city tramway and the proposal was abandoned. The boulevard Galliéni, pictured on a Saigon map of 1942 which shows the tramway line Then in 1925, CFI received an offer it simply could not refuse. In that year, CFTI proposed that, in exchange for a 30-year contract extension for all of its operations, it would take over the old Sài Gòn–Chợ Lớn “high road” franchise and, at its own expense, rebuild the line as a double-track electric tramway connecting the two cities via the boulevard Galliéni. The mainline rail operator jumped at this chance to dispense with the loss-making tramway line. A concession was signed in 1926, and the new Galliéni tramway line opened to the public in 1928, with seven stops – Sài Gòn terminus Hàm Nghi/Hồ Tùng Mậu crossroads, Cuniac Bến Thành Market, d’Arras Trần Hưng Đạo/Hồ Hảo Hớn junction, Nancy Trần Hưng Đạo/Nguyễn Văn Cừ junction, Pétrus Ký Lê Hồng Phong/Trần Hưng Đạo junction, An-binh An Bình/Trần Hưng Đạo junction, and then along the rue des Marins into Chợ Lớn. A rare 1953 colour image of electric trams on boulevard Gallieni Trần Hưng Đạo boulevard, on the eve of closure Sadly, the Galliéni boulevard tramway line functioned for only 25 years. Victim of a long-running dispute between CFTI and Bải Đại’s State of Việt Nam government, it ceased operation on 11 June 1953. In 1955, the authorities terminated CFTI’s contract and closed the entire tramway system permanently. In 1952, the section of Galliéni boulevard running from rue Nancy to rue d’An-Binh was renamed Trần Hưng Đạo boulevard, in honour of the great national hero Trần Hưng Đạo ?-1300, who inflicted three successive defeats on Mongol invaders. Then after 1955, that became the new name of the entire boulevard, while the former rue des Marins which connected it to Chợ Lớn became Đồng Khánh boulevard. Since 1976, Đồng Khánh boulevard has been known as Trần Hưng Đạo B. The Pétrus Ký Mausoleum today After 1955, Trần Hưng Đạo became the new name of the entire boulevard, while the former rue des Marins which connected it to Chợ Lớn became Đồng Khánh boulevard. Since 1976, Đồng Khánh boulevard has been known as Trần Hưng Đạo B. Because of the street’s relative newness, most of the important landmarks situated along its length date from the later colonial period. The road was driven through the middle of the former Nhơn Giang village in Chợ Quán, where scholar Pétrus Ký had built his house on 1861, so that when the Pétrus Ký Mausoleum was built on that site in 1935-1937, it stood right next to the boulevard Galliéni. Other important landmarks on the avenue which still exist include the Comptoir Nguyễn Văn Hảo Saïgonnais flatiron building at 19-21 Trần Hưng Đạo, , the École maternelle de Chodui now Ernst Thälmann High School at 8 Trần Hưng Đạo, and the Hakka Clinic now Hồ Chí Minh City Orthopedic Trauma Hospital at 929 Trần Hưng Đạo. Sadly the former SAMIPIC mansion at 606 Trần Hưng Đạo , which existed until 2018, has since been demolished. Tim Doling is the author of the guidebook Exploring Saigon-Chợ Lớn – Vanishing heritage of Hồ Chí Minh City Nhà Xuất Bản Thế Giới, Hà Nội, 2019 A full index of all Tim’s blog articles since November 2013 is now available here. Join the Facebook group pages Saigon-Chợ Lớn Then & Now to see historic photographs juxtaposed with new ones taken in the same locations, and Đài Quan sát Di sản Sài Gòn – Saigon Heritage Observatory for up-to-date information on conservation issues in Saigon and Chợ Lớn.
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The grand old villa at 606 Trần Hưng Đạo, one of Chợ Quán’s few remaining heritage buildings, is currently threatened with redevelopment. Related Articles - Date With The Wrecking Ball Ba Son Shipyard - [Photos] 13 Old Saigon Villas To Be Demolished - Date With The Wrecking Ball Saigon Hospital According to local historians, 606 Trần Hưng Đạo was once the site of an old Khmer pagoda, but by 1932 that had been demolished to make way for the current building, an elegant villa built for the state-franchised charity lottery company known as the Société pour l’amélioration morale, intellectuelle et physique des indigènes de Cochinchine SAMIPIC. The MAAG headquarters at 606 Trần Hưng Đạo in 1962 unknown photographer Founded in 1926 and run by a committee which “grouped together the élite of Annamite society” Gazette coloniale, 1936, SAMIPIC sold 2-piastre lottery tickets to the public and then donated a substantial part of its income to charitable, health and educational causes in Cochinchine. It also “organised conferences, and every year offered a number of scholarships in France and in the colony to the most deserving students.” SAMIPIC’s achievements included setting up the Maison des Associations Annamites in Saigon in 1929 and funding the construction of the “Maison indochinoise” at the Cité Universitaire de Paris, which was inaugurated on 22 March 1930 by French President Gaston Doumergue and the young King Bảo Đại. Another view of the MAAG headquarters at 606 Trần Hưng Đạo from 1963 unknown photographer. SAMIPIC was housed initially in a small villa near the Parc Maurice Long [today’s Tao Đàn Park], but on 16 February 1933 La Croix newspaper reported the inauguration of its brand new headquarters at 96 boulevard Galliéni now 606 Trần Hưng Đạo. The building was later described as “superb,” with “magnificent decor” Écho annamite, 6 September 1941. After the departure of the French in 1954, the villa was acquired by the American government and became home to the Military Assistance Advisory Group MAAG, which co-ordinated the supply of military hardware, training and assistance to the French and subsequently to the Republic of Việt Nam. Because of its high profile, the villa was one of three US installations in the city targeted by the National Liberation Front on 22 October 1957. In February 1962, following the arrival of the first US Army aviation units, MAAG became part of the Military Assistance Command Việt Nam MACV, which was set up to provide a more integrated command structure with full responsibility for all US military activities and operations in Việt Nam. At first, MACV staff shared the villa at 606 Trần Hưng Đạo with their MAAG colleagues, but in May 1962 they were given separate accommodation on Pasteur street see 137 Pasteur. From that date until 1966, the villa at 606 Trần Hưng Đạo was known as “MACV II.” MAAG survived as a separate entity until May 1964, when its functions were fully integrated into MACV. The Republic of Korea Forces Vietnam ROKFV headquarters building at 606 Trần Hưng Đạo in the late 1960s unknown photographer. In 1966, following the transfer of all MACV operations to the new “Pentagon East” complex at Tân Sơn Nhất Air Base, the villa at 606 Trần Hưng Đạo was vacated by the Americans and became the headquarters of the Republic of Korea Forces Vietnam ROKFV, which remained at the villa until the signing of the Paris Peace Accords in 1973. The villa at 606 Trần Hưng Đạo is currently home to several local businesses. However, according to reliable sources, plans to demolish it and replace it with a new office block are currently under consideration. Tim Doling is the author of the walking tour book Exploring Hồ Chí Minh City Nhà Xuất Bản Thế Giới, Hà Nội, 2014 and also conducts Heritage Tours of Saigon and Chợ Lớn - see
606 trần hưng đạo